skin-care treatments
By Arielle Avila, a writer at the Strategist covering wardrobe basics and personal care. She joined the Strategist in 2020 as a junior writer. Previously, she wrote about style at Texas Monthly.
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Toners and essences are both steps in a skin-care routine that happen between cleansing and moisturizing. The line between the two types of products has blurred more — especially with the continuing rise of K-beauty trends in western skin care — but they still aren’t interchangeable. It’s important to know what to shop for, especially if you’re looking to treat specific skin concerns. I spoke to a dermatologist, cosmetic chemist, and K-beauty founder about how the two are different (and where the similarities lie).
What are toners?
Toners are water-based products meant to be applied right after cleansing your face. Historically, they were for balancing out the pH of your skin after using stripping cleansers, and while some can still function like that, it’s not always the case —especially since cleansers are more gentle and less stripping than before. Now, they serve many different functions, just as serums can have multiple purposes.
What are the benefits of toners?
Generally there are three types of toners, and each has different benefits. Hydrating toners do exactly what you’d think. They add moisture to the skin and can calm irritation, which is especially beneficial for dry or sensitive skin. It’s also worth noting that these can be the most similar to essences. “If someone were to ask me to develop a hydrating toner and an essence, I’d give them very similar formulas,” cosmetic chemist Julian Sass says. Exfoliating toners use actives to break down dead skin cells or flush out clogged pores. Most skin types could benefit from an exfoliating toner, just proceed with caution if you have sensitive skin. Lastly, cleansing toners help remove residual dirt off of the skin and dry out excess oil. Acne-prone and oily skin can benefit the most from this, but experts recommend staying away from alcohol-based formulas, since it can lead to dried-out skin and irritation.
Are there certain ingredients to look for in a toner?
Because toners come in such a broad range of formulas, it really depends on your specific skin concerns. Dermatologist Hope Mitchell says folks with oily or acne-prone skin could benefit from ingredients like salicylic acid or witch hazel, which can help control excess oil and minimize breakouts. If you have dry or sensitive skin, opt for hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin to replenish moisture and soothe irritation. Antioxidants like vitamin C or green-tea extract can provide added protection against environmental damage.
What are essences?
Essences are also lightweight products, but are typically more concentrated than toners. While toners are almost exclusively watery, essences can have a consistency that ranges from watery to gel-like (though they usually are on the lightweight side). Essences can be traced all the way back to 1897, when the Japanese beauty brand Shiseido released Eudermine.
What are the benefits of essences?
Like toners, essences offer a host of benefits, depending on the formulation. Hydration is the top priority of an essence, however, and they are never stripping. The extra layer of hydration is meant to enhance the absorption of the rest of your skin-care products and max out their effectiveness. Mitchell says the most common concerns that essences tackle are fine lines, dullness, and uneven texture, so dry and mature skin might benefit most from essences (though all other skin types could benefit too).
Are there certain ingredients to look for in an essence?
Again, it’s best to look for ingredients that suit your skin’s specific needs. Most often, you’ll see hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin. From there, you may see brightening ingredients like vitamin C or niacinamide for evening out skin and reducing dark spots, calming ingredients like centella asiatica, and anti-aging ingredients like peptides or retinol derivatives. Esthetician Erica Choi, who has both a toner and essence in her skin-care line Superegg, says it’s good to look for filtrates (ingredients derived from fermentation). Ones she mentioned were galactomyces ferment, a soothing antioxidant, and bifida ferment lysate, which strengthens the skin barrier.
Is there a difference in how you should apply a toner and essence?
Exfoliating and cleansing toners are best applied with a cotton pad. It helps remove any remaining makeup or dirt and allows for even distribution of the product. Mitchell notes, though, that people with sensitive skin can instead opt for patting the product into the skin since the cotton pad could cause irritation. Hydrating toners and essences should be gently patted into the skin with clean fingertips. Choi says the extra warmth of our hands allows the ingredients to sink in more deeply, leading to deeper absorption and more hydration. Following up with a moisturizer is key for both, since it locks in hydration.
Some toners and essences that we like
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